Sacred Land of the Kitlope

For years we have been trying to sail into the Kitlope. This year on our way north we did.

Next to Haida Gwaii, protection of the Kitlope has been the most important good news story for First Nations people and environmentalists. It is the setting for Monkey Beach, a wonderful novel by Enid Robinson, native of Kitamaat. And we have heard so many stories of its awesome beauty and remoteness.

We picked up friend Doug from the ferry at Bella Bella and continued up the coast into Gardiner Channel. We saw one other sailboat in the first half of the trip into the Kitlope, and no other boats after the Europa Hot Springs.

Doug soaks in warmth and beauty

Hot pools over the ocean

Although the Europa hot springs are probably the most famous on the north coast, very few actually visit them. This whole area is quite out of the way. Remote.

Mountains to sea

Sailboat dwarfed

Hanging blue glacier

sunset on mountaintops

Here the snow came right down to the beach in late May

So we dinghy-ed over to get some snow

for delicious snow cones aboard.

This trip was a delight for us. We remarked often of our sense of peace and connection to nature, beauty and wholeness. We enjoyed each others' company in work, play and solitude.

One of the reasons for our blissful experience was the absence of logging scars. The Kitlope Valley is the world's largest undisturbed coastal temperate rainforest. In 1994, 317,000 hectares were set aside to protect the area. The Haisla people were responsible for the research, planning and lobbying that brought about this decision. The work goes on, to continue protection of this priceless treasure.

We enjoyed wonderful wildlife and the local food.

Grizzly in Owyacumish Bay

Well-fed black bear eating sedges in Chief Matthews Bay.

Barn swallows have a rest on La Sonrisa

seagull pair

The nest with egg they are watching

Beaver’s work - Kitlope River estuary

Lucky for us, crab and prawns are Dougs favourite foods!

This almost 9" crab has Doug's name on it.

Crab lunch stop

Spot prawns above, coon stripe shrimp below

Shrimp sandwich

Kemano Bay

This is the site of the shore facilities for the Kemano Power Station, a major engineering feat, but environmentally questionable. The Nechako River and major lakes were dammed and tunneled through the Coast Range mountains to drive pelton wheel power generators deep inside the mountain.

Here is the site in it's setting in Kemano Bay.

In the early 1990's, when word got out about planned expansion of this project, public opposition mounted until the provincial government withheld approval and work was stopped.

Here is what you first see as you approach Kemano Bay.

The beauty and peace of the area includes a very light human presence. The First Nations sites show the respectful presence of the Haisla people on their land.

First Nations watch cabin in the green waters by Europa hot springs

Owyacumish Bay cabin. A large grizzly was at home here.

First Nations summer salmon camp on peninsula in Kemano Bay

Abalone eyes - pole guarding First Nations site at head of the sacred Kitlope waters

Kawesas lodge - Kitlope River estuary

After we left the Kitlope we discovered that there had been a major feast on May 29. The Solidarity Gathering of Nations was hosted by the Haisla and Gitga'at Nations in Kitamaat Village. A friend who attended found it to be "the most generous, gracious feast I ever attended." Wonderful traditional foods, music and drumming. All coastal nations were present and re-affirmed the commitment to stop the Enbridge Northern Gateway Pipeline.

Here are links to find out more:

http://s2sca.blogspot.com/2010/05/feast-hosted-by-haisla-gitgaat-at.html

http://wcel.org/resources/environmental-law-alert/gathering-nations-kitamaat-against-pipelines-and-oil-tankers

http://dogwoodinitiative.org/blog/coastal-first-nations-declare-ban-on-tankers

Orcas greet us as we leave Douglas Channel